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Are We French, Yet? Keith and Val’s Adventures in Provence – Book Review

December 12, 2018 by Ashley Leave a Comment

Are We French, Yet? Keith and Val’s Adventures in Provence
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Keith and Val Van Sickle are back again with another collection of wonderful and heartwarming short stories on their continuing adventures in Provence. Full of hilarity and nostalgia, Are We French, Yet? Keith and Val’s Adventures in Provence, gives us the inside scoop on what life is really like in Provence: the importance of experiencing good wine and food with friends, picnics and bike rides in the countryside, the difficulty of learning the French language, what Bouillabaisse really is a why the French love it, and so much more.

The love and sentiment that Keith and Val have for Provence shines through in every story of this book. The enjoyment I got from reading it is more than I could ever say. Provence holds a special place in my heart and reading about these experiences just reiterates that to me.

Are you still wondering and dreaming of what it’s like to live in Provence? Well, wonder no more, read on and you shall see.

Are We French, Yet?
Keith Van Sickle
Are We French, Yet?
Keith Van Sickle

Book Title: Are We French, Yet? Keith and Val’s Adventures in Provence

Author: Keith Van Sickle

Available Formats: Kindle 

Where to Purchase: Amazon.com

As with Keith’s first book, One Sip at a Time: Learning to Live in Provence, each chapter of his new book is a self- contained, short story. Each story giving us a view through different windows into the world of Provence, which is undoubtedly a world of its own. Provence is a large region in France but for many, it sort of gets lumped together in one ideological sense. For those who’ve not visited or lived here, it would seem that all of Provence is the same, but surprisingly, it’s not. I live in a completely different area of Provence than Keith and Val do. The terrain is different, the wine taste different, and the culture and people are different. One of the many reasons why I love Keith’s stories so much is that with them, I get to see and experience Provence in a whole new way.

He doesn’t just write about being in Provence, he writes about learning how to become Provençal. Though he states that he and Val will always be les étrangers (foreigners) to the people of Provence, with each experience, with each effort made by them to learn the language and the culture, they step ever so closer to becoming as Provençal as they could ever be.

How breaking your wrist can get you a tour of a winery

Keith’s book begins by the retelling of how he broke his wrist just before he and Val were to leave for their trip to Provence. In, Not Quite What I Planned, he recounts his very unfortunate accident and in, The Interrogation, he tells of how this painful incident actually turned into a stroke of luck. Where else but in Provence are you going to get medical help from a doctor that just happens to know the owners of one of the best wineries around?

As most of us know, wine is a huge part of life in France and Provençal wines are among the most wonderful. Keith has some amazing stories of wine tasting with friends, of taking tours, learning the whole process of wine making, and learning how to schmooze your winery-owner friends into giving you the best of the best bottles from the best season! I learned a lot from this….and took notes. Let’s just say, my cave is going to pretty full in the upcoming months!

When in France, learn French

Part of “being French” is learning the language of course, and Keith and Val are hard at work on this. I’m quite impressed with the level they’ve gone to in order to understand, read, and speak the language. With any new learning experience mistakes are made and inevitably, some of them are quite funny! With humor and openness, Keith is very forthcoming on the fact that he isn’t an expert with language learning and he’s had a hard time of it. What I love is his persistence. He doesn’t give up, he really tries and it’s this state of mind that really makes me applaud him. 

In, It’s All About The Tongue, he has no problem with telling you that the teacher laughed at him over his pronunciation and about how self-conscious he was when speaking. His way of telling how one has to learn to use their tongue (insert laugh here), their lips and mouth (another laugh), and how growling like a dog is part of speaking the French language…..well, trust me, you’re going to have to read it to believe it!

Another thing that makes the French language so difficult is the nuances and all the tenses. In, I will never be Français, Keith goes about explaining how precise the language can be and how the French pride themselves on the precision of the language and that is, in essence, part of its beauty. He tells how having 26 tenses is mind-blowing and I whole-heartedly agree with him on that! What in the world were the French language creators thinking???

Always learning something new in Provence

As if learning the French language wasn’t enough, Keith wonderfully gives the inside story on why the French are in love with scarves. In, Dressing in French, he shows how mastering that art of wearing a scarf was a big milestone for him. Scarves are one of those things that the French just seem to wear effortless and they always look good. Like, they are some sort of professional scarf-wearers or something. Always fashionable any time of year, the French just seem to know how to make it a beautiful accessory. How and why they do it is something that Keith sets out to discover and in doing so, his little research project gives him an answer that he was amazed to find out. You’ll see, it’s not all about fashion with the French. What else is there, you say??….Well, you’ll find out!

Another great discovery that Keith finds is the history behind certain, famous, Provençal meals. In, Exploding Soup and The Art of Débat, you get to learn how the dishes of “bouillabaisse” and “le grand aïoli” came to be known as traditional dishes in this part of France and how they are made. I was thrilled to learn about this because I never knew the reasons!  It’s so much fun to learn new things about the places you live in and through Keith’s words, you get to have fun discovering them along with him.

Don’t forget to say Bonjour and make sure to use those French expressions

Being an American, I always thought that saying Bonjour to everyone when you walk into a place was sort of weird. If you walked in to a store in the USA and said hello so that everyone could hear you, they would think something was wrong with you.  In, Learning The Rules, Keith explains that saying Bonjour to everyone means that you are being polite and if you don’t do it, you are breaking the rules and therefore, you are not being polite.

I loved that he included this in one of his stories. It’s a subtle thing that many people would miss, but it’s a very important aspect of living and being in France. He also points out that it’s harder than you would think and there are rules for using this rule! What are those rules, you might ask? Well, you’re going to have to read his explanation on that. For what I gather, he has it down to a science.  Even politeness has a protocol to follow in France!

With learning a new language, you also get to learn those fun expressions that native speakers use. Keith’s love and desire to speak and understand French really comes across when he writes about learning new phrases and expressions in French. I just love how he jots them down in his memory for further use because, after all, saying them would mean you are that much closer to becoming French! I was able to pick up and note down some new expressions thanks to Keith and his friends!

I wonder if it would be a good thing to mix the two when entering a store or waiting room. You know, say Bonjour then use an idiomatic expression afterwards…on second thought, no. That’s probably breaking a major French rule somewhere……

It pays to be sporty in Provence

I love a good hike and I’m always looking to find new hiking trails. Well, Keith and Val’s love of biking leads him to tell some stories of their biking adventures and the trails they have discovered and taken on their bike tours. Though, I’m not much of a bicycle rider, these trails are great for hiking, too, and thanks to Keith’s stories, he’s offered up a few new places to go hiking around Provence.

In, A New Challenge ,Keith is quick to point out that Val is much less of a wuss when it comes to a challenging bike ride. However, he musters the strength to go on this very difficult ride and tells how the views were so well worth the pain. I can tell you he is definitely not a wuss! Through Les Alpilles, past vineyards, through forests, up to mountain tops, and with views of the Mediterranean, Avignon, Saint-Rémy and a lot of other places, you can’t help but want to get out and ride (or hike). His retelling of their bicycle rides just makes you want to experience the great outdoors of Provence. He’s able to describe so wonderfully the beauty that surrounds us here and the love he has for the region. It’s part of what makes this little corner of the world so special.

You want to come and visit now, don’t you???

What is a good book to read?

I thoroughly enjoyed sharing in Keith and Val’s adventures in Provence.

Whether you are an armchair traveler, and avid traveler, have been to Provence, or want to visit Provence, this book is for you. There is just something to be said about the writings of someone who has such passion and love for the subject they are writing about. It shines through and Keith has a way of doing just that. To laugh, to be confused, to question, and to discover is one of the best things about Provence. To say that you get it all here is an understatement. Provence really does have it all and Keith’s stories show what an amazing and quirky place this is.

Are We French, Yet? Keith and Val’s Adventures in Provence, will certainly delight you. Now….you really want to come and visit, don’t you?

If you haven’t yet experienced One Sip at a Time: Learning to Live in Provence, Keith’s first book in his Provençal adventure series, you can read my review here.

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Filed Under: Reviews Tagged With: Are We French Yet, book review, books, dinner in provence, drinks in provence, food in provence, france, living in Provence, One Sip at a Time, provence, stories about provence, travel, wine in provence

Uncorked, My Year In Provence- Book Review

June 28, 2017 by Ashley Leave a Comment

Uncorked – My Year in Provence Studying Pétanque, Discovering Chagall, Drinking Pastis, and Mangling French
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It all started with that mysterious, curious and uniquely French past time called Pétanque. For the Provençal this is the game of the gods. Fiercely competitive, requiring extreme skill and most of all, you must be French to play it (at least that’s what the people in Provence claim). Fortunately, for Paul Shore, his wonderful Canadian demure gave him the ability to break through the ice and find a local to help him master this age-old past time and in his book, Uncorked – My Year in Provence Studying Pétanque, Discovering Chagall, Drinking Pastis, and Mangling French, he recants the tale of his time spent living in a small village in Provence, and the humorous trials and tribulations he encountered there while trying to learn the “game of the gods”.

Join Paul on his journey as he invites you to meet the colorful and charming locals, all the while trying to master this uniquely, French game.

And you thought this was going to be about wine, didn’t you?

Book Title: Uncorked – My Year in Provence Studying Pétanque, Discovering Chagall, Drinking Pastis, and Mangling French

Uncorked – My Year in Provence Studying Pétanque, Discovering Chagall, Drinking Pastis, and Mangling French
Uncorked – My Year in Provence Studying Pétanque, Discovering Chagall, Drinking Pastis, and Mangling French

Author: Paul Shore

Format: Kindle and Paperback

Where to Buy: Amazon.com

As Paul’s story unfolds, we get a very detailed description of Pétanque and what the game is all about, including the rules, strategy and the art of play (and yes, this game is art). He also provides us with some nifty French lingo in relation to the sport. So, not only do you get to learn the game, but you get to learn some French words, as well!

He also tells us how and why he came to live in this very unique corner of the world and his topsy-turvy time from stepping off the plane in Nice, to arriving in the little village he would call home. Little did he know that his choice of a small, quaint, picturesque village, was actually a tourist mecca in the summer, but it was also home to a warm and lovable character who would become a great friend and who was to take on the huge responsibility of tutoring him in the art of Pétanque.

The village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence

I was immediately jealous of the fact that Paul was lucky enough to make his home in Saint-Paul-de-Vence. I distinctly remember my first visit to this village. It was as if I had stepped onto a movie set. Gorgeous, old buildings, cobble stone streets, quaint boutiques, and an impressive view. This place was exactly what comes to mind when you think of Provence. Living here would be like living in a picture book.

Throughout the story, Paul weaves into it the details of the village, the colorful characters he encounters, the curiosity of being the “outsider” trying to find his place and the increasing love he has for all that is Provence. It is in this village that Paul first encounters the game of Pétanque and decides that no matter what, he was going to learn the game, even if he didn’t meet the two major requirements: being over 40 and being French.

Saint-Paul-de-Vence
Saint-Paul-de-Vence

It is here that he meets the people that will become an intricate part of his life. From Colette, who teaches French to expats, and who was the first person who Paul confided in about wanting to learn how to play Pétanque; to Adele, the woman who owns an art gallery and schools him on the art of art; to Pierre, the most debonair man-about-village, we get to see the inner workings of the people and the village and the downright hilarious happenstances that continuously come about while Paul lives there.

But it is one of the villagers, named Hubert, who becomes the closest confidant of Paul because it is he who takes on the “difficult” task of becoming the sponsor who will teach Paul how to play that all important game of Pétanque.

Playing Pétanque

Paul’s wonderful humor and whit as he describes learning the sport, brings such a heartwarming and charm to the story. His description of trying to ask Hubert to sponsor him, of trying to buy his very own Pétanque balls and of his very first, all important, real game is filled with such genuine charm that you can’t help but root for him from beginning to end.

From the start, Hubert is not having any of it because Paul is not French, and therefore, couldn’t possibly be a candidate to play. Through Paul’s persistence, and his ability to pull off an exceptional accomplishment in the village, he impresses Hubert to the point that he eventually decides to take him under his wing and teach him the game, but under one circumstance that Paul will just have to deal with!

Playing Pétanque (photo via www.sudouest.fr)
Playing Pétanque (photo via www.sudouest.fr)

Going through the motions of learning the rules and regulations of the sport and which player he will be, the pointeur or the tireur, is a crucial thing for Paul as he continues to hone his skills. By the end of his learning curve, and ours, we’ve all managed to find out the history of the game, that there is a proper way to unpack the balls, what each of them are called, and that the game is just as much of a mind game as a skill game. How getting inside the head of your opponent, and under their skin, can tip the odds in your favor.

But there is one more, all important step to take: you must have your own set of balls.

The art of buying balls

Paul’s encounter of buying his very own set of Pétanque balls, kept me smiling.  This chapter was so funny and so characteristically “French” that I laughed out loud for quite some time.  I felt like I was there, with him, while he hilariously manages to get his point across to the lady in the Pétanque store who spoke no English.

The pride of how the French feel about their national past time really comes through as Genevieve takes Paul around her store to explain the origins of Pétanque, all the while showing him her collections of historical Pétanque items. I’ve made a mental note to go to this shop the next time I am in the area because it sounded so fascinating and I would love to see the little Pétanque museum portion that is inside.

Upon leaving the store with a beaming, smile of pride and his own personal set of balls, I found myself giving him a virtual pat on the back for a job well done.

Pétanque Balls (photo via www.petanque-lebarp.fr )
Pétanque Balls (photo via www.petanque-lebarp.fr )

Canada Dry

If there is one chapter in this book that brought “laugh tears” to my eyes it’s the one that references that famous beverage, Canada Dry. Paul’s description of one of the games that wasn’t going just right for him had me in uncontrollable giggles. At one point, both my husband and daughter came in the room asking what the heck I was laughing about (since I was all by myself), and the only words I could manage to get out between my bouts of laughter were, Canada Dry, and then I would revert right back into laughing again.

For obvious reasons, I cannot give anything away, but I guarantee that you will be laughing too, once you have read it!  Let’s just say that the words Canada Dry now mean something totally different to me!

Showing off your skills

As Paul is bettering his skills of play, he gets to participate is some games, the first one being with some high-ranking officials. As time moves on and the seasons come and go, he becomes pretty good at the sport and gets invited to play in many games with the locals. This not only impresses Paul, but also the locals and most importantly, Hubert, who goes from being a skeptic teacher to a proud one. For Paul, proving his worthiness to play the game is an important aspect for him. I wondered throughout the book whether this was the major driver which got him to work so hard at learning the game, or if it was simply his curiosity in the beginning that got the better of him and was the real proponent.

The art of playing Pétanque (photo via www.travelbig.com)
The art of playing Pétanque (photo via www.travelbig.com)

In either case, or both, by the end of the book Paul has reached a milestone. His year in Provence proved to be an eye-opener in so many ways. He gained insight into another culture, another way of living, he made friends, he learned the joie de vivre, and most importantly he learned how to play Pétanque.

Culture shock

As with any move, the ups and downs, happy times and stressful times are a big part of it. As anyone can imagine, a move to a new country would increase these ten-fold and Paul is no less affected.

The charm and affinity for which he writes about his little, cave-like apartment, the gorgeous colors that fill the Provençal countryside, and his work to improve his French skills are just some of the few things that makes you want to hop on a plane and move to Provence.

Then there are the real culture shock experiences that he tells about and they will have you shaking your head in disbelief and saying, run, run, far away! He writes of the wonderful two hour long lunches that you would, in theory, love to enjoy to its fullest except that everything is closed so you can’t get any errands done during that time. Maybe they expect you to be playing Pétanque!

Saint-Paul de Vence's famous pétanque pitch
Saint-Paul de Vence’s famous pétanque pitch

He also writes about the inefficiencies with which life happens in Provence. Whether it be buying items and having them shipped to him incomplete so he can’t do a project, a promised rental car that ended up not being available, French drivers (I need not say more about that!), crazy village roads, or of him trying to rent a place and get a bank account, he is able to so vividly describe life in this part of the country and how difficult it can be.

From first hand experience, I can tell you that all of these things would make you pull your hair out in frustration and yet, you can’t help but be drawn in by this place. It grabs you, and holds you, and you find that all those things that drive you crazy don’t hold a candle to the things that make you love it.

What is a good book to read?

By the end of the book, Paul has been charmed in a way that only someone could be by spending a good deal of time in this part of France. He accomplished a great deal in his one year in Provence and he manages to charm us along the way. If I didn’t live here already, I would be making plans to move now!

The endearing phrases, the way he recalls his time spent in Provence, his love of the game of Pétanque and the charming people he meets along the way make Uncorked, My Year In Provence, Discovering Chagall, Drinking Pastis, and Mangling French a great book to read. You will not be disappointed! So pick up a glass of your favorite Provençal wine and enjoy yourself with this heartwarming tale.

 

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Filed Under: Reviews Tagged With: book review, books, buying balls, Canada Dry, culture shock, expat life, exploring provence, france, learning Pétanque, living in Provence, outdoor sports, Pétanque, playing Pétanque, provencal, provence, reading, Saint-Paul-de-Vence, skill, sport, year in provence

The Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

June 9, 2017 by Ashley 2 Comments

Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
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Even though the Villa Ephrussi de Rothchild is a well-known place to visit in Provence, I had to add it to my “hidden gems” list because it is just marvelous and everyone should see the place.  It’s rather unbelievable that it took me more than six years to visit, and I live only about an hour and a half away. I’ve wanted to tour the villa ever since moving to Provence and each winter I would tell myself that when spring arrived I was going to go because I wanted to see the gardens in all their blooming glory. Well, each year spring arrived and I never got around to making a visit. I have no excuse for it except that I was being a lame procrastinator. Obviously, six years later, that methodology got me nowhere near the place. This year, I didn’t even make any promises about going. That’s probably the reason why I finally up and went.

Arriving at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

A view on Saint Jean Cap Ferrat
A view on Saint Jean Cap Ferrat

One beautiful, spring, Sunday morning, my husband and I made the drive to the villa and we spent the entire, glorious day there and it was so worth the wait. Everything about it was lovely, charming, relaxing and just fantastic, except one thing….the parking.

I have to get this out of the way, right away. The biggest advice about getting to the villa is DO NOT drive there. Though the drive is beautiful, there is absolutely no place to park. On the villa’s website, it mentions that there are a few places in front of the villa in which to park your car. A few places means about 10 and if you don’t get there in enough time (like the crack of dawn) you will never find a place.

All around the villa, on the Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, there is street parking, but it’s usually all taken so you’ll end up driving around forever trying to find a spot and when you finally do, you’ll have to walk for endless miles to get from your car to the villa. I know this for a fact, because that’s what happened to me.

Taking the bus to Villa Ephrussi

From Nice: The bus stops right in front of the villa and by arriving this way, you will save yourself a lot of time, energy, hassle and frustration. Next time around, it’s the bus for me.

Since bus schedules change often, it’s best to check the Linges d’Azur bus schedule before planning your trip. Once on the page, click on Plan Your Trip, then Schedules, then scroll down to Route Schedules and type in BUS 81. The stop for Villa Ephrussi is Passable/Rothschild.

From Menton, Monaco and Eze-sur-Mer, the bus number is 100 and the stop is Pont St Jean, then you will have about a 10 minute walk to the villa.

The Mediterranean view from Saint Jean Cap Ferrat
The Mediterranean view from Saint Jean Cap Ferrat

Taking the train to Villa Ephrussi

Another option would be to take the train to the station at Beaulieu-sur-Mer. This, like driving, I would counsel against unless you really like walking and the weather is agreeable that day because the walk from the train station to the villa takes about 25 minutes with the last 10 minutes being entirely uphill.

Now that we’ve gotten all that out of the way, it’s on to the good stuff.

History of the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

The villa was built in the early 1900’s by Charlotte Béatrice de Rothschild. She was the third child, and second daughter, of Alphonse James de Rothschild and Leonora de Rothschild. Yes, her parents were cousins.

Béatrice, as she was known, spent her entire youth traveling and collecting art work, which included paintings, rare furniture and porcelain (this is a woman after my own heart). She was also quite fond of animals and when the villa was constructed, she maintained her own private zoo there.

The garden view of the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
The garden view of the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

The beautiful exterior design of the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
The beautiful exterior design of the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

When Béatrice was 19 years old, she married Maurice Ephrussi, a Ukrainian banker and horse breeder who was 15 years older that she was. Though they both loved art collecting, gambling, horse racing and travel, their marriage was not a happy one and after 21 years together they divorced.

Soon after the divorce, Béatrice had the villa constructed.  Immediately she began filling it with the art she had been collecting during her lifetime.

In 1934, at the age of 69, Béatrice de Rothschild died childless. In her will she bequeathed the Villa Ephrussi to the Académie des Beaux-Arts division of the Institut de France who in turn, made it into a museum.

One of the many painted ceilings at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
One of the many painted ceilings at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Touring the Villa- the ground floor

For anyone who loves history and turn of the century architecture, the villa is a definite place to visit.

Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

The first thing you notice about the villa is its lovely, Venetian style construction, painted with the most delightful color of pink on the façade. As you make your way up the steps to enter the villa, you get the most wonderful view of the Mediterranean from the terrace. The villa sits on the highest point of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat and as such, offers the most impressive views of the French Riviera coastline.

The view of the Mediterranean from the terrace at Villa Ephrussi
The view of the Mediterranean from the terrace at Villa Ephrussi

Once inside, your first glimpse is of the large, interior courtyard. This room is the center focal point of the villa and is two-stories high. All other rooms on the ground floor are entered into from this room. This is also where you will pick up your free audio guide (more on that at the end of the post).

In the interior courtyard you will undoubtedly notice the beautiful, pink, marble columns and the paintings and art collections hanging on the walls. Many of the items that Béatrice collected were from old cathedrals, churches and historical hotels. You are able to see this in portions of the exterior of the villa, as well, where it is as if it was constructed around these items.

The interior courtyard of the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
The interior courtyard of the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

A painting collected from a church in the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
A painting collected from a church in the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Interior courtyard at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Interior courtyard at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

On the day I visited, guest were entertained by two women dressed in historical attire who were putting on a show for us.

Two actresses entertaining the guest at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Two actresses entertaining the guest at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

From this room make your way into Béatrice’s boudoir. A large room facing the east with beautiful, bay windows looking out over the Mediterranean and a view of Beaulieu-sur-Mer and Monaco. The furniture is classic Louis XV and XVI and there is even a writing desk that belonged to Marie-Antoinette.  Fantastic paintings adorn the doors and some of the walls, while on other walls tapestries are hanging. Everything is laid out as if someone actually lived there today.

The bay windows in the boudoir at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
The bay windows in the boudoir at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Candle holder in the boudoir at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Candle holder in the boudoir at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Writing desk of Marie-Antoinette in the boudoir at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Writing desk of Marie-Antoinette in the boudoir at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Artistically painted doors at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Artistically painted doors at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

From here, go to the bedroom with its attached salon. The views are of the Mediterranean and Villefranche-sur-Mer. Béatrice’s bed is still there and just next to it a dress, shoes and a tea set. In the salon you will see two, tiny beds for her pets. She was quite an interesting and eccentric person. Besides having a host of dogs, her pets also included a mongoose and a monkey which went everywhere she did.

Béatrice de Rothschilds bed at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Béatrice de Rothschilds bed at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

You will then walk through a dressing room which showcases an amazing collection of traditional, Chinese clothing from the 18th century. This leads to a beautifully painted bathroom.

Beautifully decorated bathroom at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Beautifully decorated bathroom at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Just next to the bathroom is a dining room which features several cupboards of porcelain sets.

The dining room at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
The dining room at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

A mantle clock from the collection of Béatrice de Rothschild
A mantle clock from the collection of Béatrice de Rothschild

Porcelain collection at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Porcelain collection at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Beautiful porcelain pieces at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Beautiful porcelain pieces at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

There is also a small salon which is facing the French garden and has a lovely painted ceiling and painted alcoves.

The blue salon at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
The blue salon at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Painted wall inside an alcove in the blue salon at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Painted wall inside an alcove in the blue salon at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

On this level there is also a tearoom and a bathroom for visitors.

Touring the Villa- the second floor

Making your way to the second level, hanging on the staircase walls, are photographs of the villa during its construction. The second level consist of several rooms leading you in a square pattern above the interior courtyard on the first floor.

Walkway along the second floor above the interior courtyard at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Walkway along the second floor above the interior courtyard at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Here you will find two bedrooms, one with furnishings and the other with cupboards of porcelain from Germany. Across from this is a tiny room with yet more porcelain. At the end of the hallway is a tapestry room with additional furnishings, including desks, a game table, chairs, sofas, and lamps.

Small porcelain tea set at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Small porcelain tea set at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

The tapestry room at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
The tapestry room at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

A game table in the tapestry room at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
A game table and beautifully designed chairs in the tapestry room at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

As you make your way down another hallway, you come to a light blue room with the most intricate, storybook paintings all over the walls, in a brilliant, artistic style. It’s as if you’ve gotten lost in a fairy tale. I can’t imagine the time it took to paint this one room.

The storybook room of cats at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
The storybook room at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Beautifully detailed and hand painted room at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Beautifully detailed and hand painted room at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Gorgeous, hand-painted, storybook cat in a room at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Gorgeous, hand-painted, storybook style art in a room at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

When exiting, you find yourself on a south facing terrace with a gorgeous view of the French garden, large fountain and views on both sides of the Mediterranean. This girl new what she was doing! Take time out to sit in the many chairs available and take in the view. This is also a great time to gets some photos of the garden.

The French Garden as seen from the terrace of the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
The French Garden as seen from the terrace of the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Standing on the terrace overlooking the French Garden and the Mediterranean at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Standing on the terrace overlooking the French Garden and the Mediterranean at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

As you exit the terrace you will continue to make your way through several more rooms, one with a Chinese art theme to it and another with beautiful clocks and an old carriage, called a Litter.

A carriage called a Litter at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
A carriage called a Litter at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

The hallways offer a view down into the interior courtyard and many tapestries and art objects are hanging on the wall.

One of the hallways on the second story at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
One of the hallways on the second story at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Tapestries hanging in one of the second story hallways at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Tapestries hanging in one of the second story hallways at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Before visiting the gardens, you will need to head back to the ground floor and return your audio guide. You are not allowed to take it outside.

The gardens at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

The villa has nine, yes nine, beautiful gardens. I chose the springtime to visit because I really wanted to see the roses, and other flowers, in bloom. The best time to go if flower gardens interest you is between May and July. Since there are so many different types of plants, flowers, herbs and trees, each garden has its own special time of year so in reality, you can go at any time depending on what it is that interest you in in the realm of plant life.

Here is a list of the gardens, by name, and the times of year in which is best to see them.

A list of the gardens and best months to view them at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
A list of the gardens and best months to view them at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

The layout of the gardens at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
The layout of the gardens at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Besides the large, French garden, my two other favorites were the Stone Garden and the Spanish Garden.

The French garden is lovely and spacious with a walkway on both sides and a fountain that has a short, water show to music. You can walk from the villa all the way back to the garden and up some stairs which leads to a statue. The statue is facing the villa and from this point of view you can get some really nice photos of the garden and the back of the villa.

The French Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
The French Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

The grand view from the French Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
The grand view from the French Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

There is not really any specific route to follow when it comes to the gardens. You simply just start walking around.

I loved the Stone Garden because of the terrific remnants of ancient statues, arches, fountains, etc. that could be found there. I also love the lush, plant life. The flowers were in bloom and the trees were overgrown giving the garden a nice, natural umbrella of shade.

In the Stone Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
In the Stone Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Stone artifacts in the Stone Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Stone artifacts in the Stone Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Beautiful plants, flowers and trees inside the Stone Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Beautiful plants, flowers and trees inside the Stone Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Fontain and artifacts in the Stone Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Stone artifacts and flowers in the Stone Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

The Spanish Garden was also one of my favorites. The little, fish pond in a T-shape leading to a small grotto and statue that is just under a bridge and the fish fountains all make it seem like you’ve walked into another world. I could definitely bring a book and just lounge here for the entire day! Heck, who am I kidding, I could live here!

The fish pond in the Spanish Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
The fish pond in the Spanish Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

The fish fountains and marble column arches in the Stone Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
The fish fountains and marble column arches in the Spanish Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

The grotto in the Spanish Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
The grotto in the Spanish Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

The passage into the Spanish Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
The passage into the Spanish Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

The tearoom

Before you leave the Villa Ephrussi, make a stop at the tearoom. During lunchtime they offer a few meal choices and during their opening hours you can always get drinks and desserts. A bit of fair warning, it’s expensive. My husband and I opted for a dessert and water. Just those items alone was the price of an entire meal, but hey, I can at least say that I dined at the villa! Besides, the terrace dinning is lovely in the spring and the décor of the inside tearoom is just divine. Even if you go to have just a drink, it’s worth it.

Chocolate sunday treats on the tearoom terrace at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Chocolate and raspberry ice cream treats on the tearoom terrace at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Entrance fees and times:

The Villa is open every day of the year. This is good news for those who happen to be in Provence on one of the many holidays we have here. Hours of operation are different depending on the season. This is also true for the tearoom.

Villa Ephrussi

Hours: 10am –  6pm

July and August: 10am – 7pm

November to January:  Monday –Friday 2pm – 6pm and weekends and holidays 10am – 6pm

The Tearoom

February to October: 11:30am – 5:30pm

November to February: 11:30am – 5:30pm on weekends and holidays, only

2017 Pricing:

Adults: 14€

Reduced Rate:  11€ (7 years – 17 years) Reduced rates with proof of student card. This price is also good for the unemployed as long as you have written proof.

Family Rate: Free admission for second child between the ages of 7 years – 17 years if two adult tickets and one other child ticket is purchased.

A view of Villefranche-sur-Mer from the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
A view of Villefranche-sur-Mer from the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Free audio guide for the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Before embarking on your tour make sure you get your audio guide from the desk that is located on the ground floor of the house in the interior courtyard.  It is free with the purchase of your entry ticket. The audio guides come in 9 different languages and has a wealth of knowledge about the Rothschild family, the Ephrussi family and the construction of the villa.

Spring flowers at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Spring flowers at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

What I loved about the audio guide, besides it being simple to use, it that you can listen at leisure in the areas that interest you and skip over those that don’t.  In between touring the rooms, there are little history lessons available on the guide about the families and the villa. The background information is quite fascinating and allows you to get to “know” the people and circumstances behind the reasons of how the villa came about.

You can find the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild location map and my Google Local Guides review here.

I hope you enjoy your tour of the Villa as much as I did. As always, I would love to hear from you, so please leave me a comment below.

 

 

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Filed Under: Exploring Places Tagged With: architecture, art, Beatrice de Rothschild, decor, exploring provence, flowers, fountain, france, gardens, history, marble, Mediterranean, paintings, pond, porcelain, provence, Rothschild, stone work, tapestries, traditional furniture, travel, traveling, trees, villa, Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

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